“Let's talk about fixing, for 3D.

Let's talk about your file, and see.

Let's talk about all the good things and the bad things, that may be.

Let’s talk about…”

Inspired by Salt N Pepa

We most likely have your attention now, which is important because the scintillating subject of architectural file preparation for 3D printing awaits you; a few simple steps that will save you from many a restless night (‘Did I really turn off all the layers?’). If you follow this procedure closely then 3D printing will be as much a compliment to your design process as Salt was to Pepa.

Whatever the design stage or the audience, a model is a powerful decision-making tool: offering the ability to see your design in the real world; to touch it; interrogate it and compare it. Unfortunately understanding what is possible, within the timeframe and especially within the budget is not always black and white. To provide you with these answers we need to be supplied with relevant design information and your preferences for how your design should be communicated.

Providing Information for an accurate Quotation

This won’t be the last time we mention this, but we have built a web-based tool for exactly this purpose.

1_HOUSEKEEPING

First things first, it’s important to be organised to help avoid any confusion with ongoing design work, so save a copy of your design file.

a_Create a New Folder:

e.g. “Fixie Quote”

“Fixie 3D Printing Quote”

“I Heart Fixie”

In this folder save a packaged file of your model here. This will ensure that all referenced drawings that are relevant for a quotation are also included in the information that you send to us. 

b_Name the file appropriately:

Naming the file for quotation differently will always help to avoid confusion.

e.g drawingname_fixiequote.extension

2_Taking out the TRASH: File Clean-Up

Now it’s time to clean up this new file - all of these steps will help speed up the quotation process and, later on, the fixing process itself. It will also ensure that no unwanted information is printed or equally that no time is wasted working on elements which aren’t important.

We all know what makes a file heavy, even if we try to turn a blind eye to the beautiful million polygon trees we’ve imported for “atmosphere”. Let’s run through some of these items:

a_people

No

b_furniture

No again

c_toilets

Noooooooo

d_Sculptural artwork you’ve downloaded from 3D warehouse

😐

In general, the message here is to think about the relevance of the information provided to achieving the final print. If you have a tight deadline, then the sooner we can assess the file and get fixing, the more likely that deadline will be met. A lighter file allows this to happen, so turn off, or preferably delete, those unwanted layers and detail (sometimes non visible/turned off layers will still be imported into our software).

e_trees

Not unlike the superfluous details above; trees can really slow down files and more often than not they’re actually 2D components and therefore will not print. Depending on whether you want trees included in your model or not, the following approaches apply:

3D Printed Trees: Supply trees in the model (up to 1-1000)

Traditional Trees (added by hand): Do not supply trees in the model - a separate tree plan will suffice.

No Trees: Do not supply trees in the model

f_context

It’s pretty amazing that we now have entire cities modelled in 3D. A lot of time can be wasted zooming in and out on a Friday afternoon whilst trying to look busy. However, we don’t need all of London to be uploaded for you to get a cost for your 3D print. And don’t worry we’re still very impressed with the size of your data.

Any and all context data that is not going to appear in the print should be removed or it will add time to delivering at each milestone.

3_SIZING IT UP

Scaling your design to the size it will be replicated at is a useful method for understanding how much time to concentrate on any particular detail. We all get bogged down in making things perfect, but if you realise that the element you’re painstakingly correcting is .1mm when reproduced then you may feel less obliged to put that strain on your eyes.

The first thing we do when fixing a file is to ensure we understand the level of detail we’re looking to print at - this starts with confirming the right scale and size which you can do directly in the viewer.



4_SETTING BOUNDARIES

If the steps above have been followed, then we should be dealing with a clean and easy to assess file. Some key questions remain - what are the extents to the model and if you have a site plug, what is the boundary to this?

The best way to communicate this to us is, coincidentally enough, in 3D - if you draw a box or volume covering the area of the intended print and any plugs, then our software will easily be able to interpret this, we will be able to quickly cut to size without any chance that we’ve missed a key landmark or cut off a relevant adjoining building.

5_PACKING IT UP

Our clients work across all CAD software. Our preference remains the same with each, that we are supplied with one or both of the following file formats:

.OBJ (wavefront)

.FBX (Motion Builder)

.SKP (SketchUp)

Receiving multiple formats is ideal as exports of complicated designs can lead to temperamental outputs. It also allows us to compare these file types if something looks amiss in one, removing the need for multiple emails.

(even though .STL is the recognised 3D printing file format, exporting from your native CAD software to .STL will often not be possible if you haven’t built the model with 3D print in mind - more on how to model for 3D Print)

6_Sending IT ON Its Way

Since you have already saved a new file all you need to do is resave/export the file and upload it to our online platform.

The use of messenger pigeons is not advised.

7_WAITING WITH BAITED BREATH

After you’ve specified your project details within our web-app and placed your order, we’ll confirm receipt and approval of the project. If your run into any trouble during the process reach out to us with the in-app chat.

As always, any other questions can we’re here to help.

“But mostly I hate the way I don't hate you,
Not even close, not even a little bit, not even at all”

Ten Things I Hate About You

When first hearing the term ‘reversed’ or ‘inverted’ normals you’d be forgiven for having flashbacks to your early teenage years when you were unceremoniously divided by your peers into two distinct categories: normal and not-normal (also commonly known as a weird-o).

It’s hard to imagine the ignominy that would have come with being labelled a ‘reversed normal’ during these formative years - some part of you is normal, you were so very close, but then you had to go and mess it all up. Typical.

As this fixing series progresses, it seems like each error we encounter exudes a similar stereotype, as if they could be defined by who they hung around with in High School. You remember the movies - there were the Jocks, the Cheerleaders, the Nerds (with many subcategories), Goths, Stoners, Hicks, Creepily Mature Students, Anarchists…the list goes on.

So far we’ve encountered the Bad Edges, who are to be avoided at all costs; the Holes, whose vacuous presence contributes as much to proceedings as the Stoners and now we have the Reversed Normals who elicit images of a student forced to face the corner of a room with a dunce cap on.

Obviously, we need to be a little more sensitive in our treatment of reversed normals these days. After all, they’re just faces looking in the wrong direction. Most softwares will give you the opportunity to highlight the direction of faces/normals. However, rather than making a show out of them, or out of yourself for your hasty modelling, they just need to be given a little nudge in the right direction. It’s imperative that all normals be facing the right direction so that the 3D printing software recognises the areas that are internal, between two external edges and thus communicating a solid printable volume (remind yourself of some of the guiding principles of 3D printing).

If Ten Things I Hate About You taught us anything (and it most certainly did), it would be that first impressions do us no favours. With a little bit of patience, encouragement and self-reflection, any file can be made printable.

So, even after the mess you arrived in and our initial opinion of you, we need to own up to the fact that this was a superficial appraisal. We do not in fact hate you. Now we see you. We see the 3D print you could be. We don’t even hate you a little bit, not even at all.

*Annnd cue: slow clap*

“Bad Edges, Bad edges, Whatcha gonna do, whatcha gonna do
When they come for you?”

Inspired by Bob Marley

Bad Edges, are next on the list of potential errors that could affect your 3D print. For those not used to the terminology these sound like the types of shady characters your parents warned you about. The kind that would hang around the back of the school smoking cigarettes. If left to their own devices Bad Edges, like true troublemakers, will also lead you down the wrong path.

Bad Edges, as touched upon in our introductory post on model errors are a result of faces or more specifically triangles, not fully ‘knitting’ together. They’re so very close together that the gap between them is potentially not visible to the human eye.

Perhaps worthy of an analogy to drive the point home: Friends Season 3 Episode 2 - “The One Where No One’s Ready”. Chandler places his hand in front of Joey’s face, it’s definitely an invasion of his personal space but crucially it isn’t touching and therefore Joey can’t get mad. In a similar vein edges can be excruciatingly close but if the software doesn’t understand them to be touching then it cannot react in the necessary way.

So close, but not touching.

There are two main causes of Bad Edges, the first is likely to occur during the course of modelling: copying and pasting of parts and multiple iterations can easily lead to elements being microscopically misaligned. Secondly, bad edges can appear during the conversion of models between softwares. Some software may read the same information in a different way: what might work in one modelling programme may not for another - especially when we refer back to one of the key objectives of working with 3D printing software as opposed to building design software: to have a watertight model.

If not dealt with, Bad Edges mean that parts of your model have non-manifold edges (in this instance meaning that edges are connected to less than one face). 3D printing software requires that all edges are manifold: connected to two faces only. In practice, if this rule is followed your model will be watertight and have a thickness throughout (so you don’t need to worry about the terminology, just the process).

Although we often won’t be able to see these bad edges 3D printing software does. It highlights these minuscule gaps and facilitates a clean up process.

We’ll lead you down the right path to 3D printed model perfection, get in touch.

As you may have seen on our Instagram we were recently working with a colourful interior fit out model. It brought up a few more issues than we anticipated and we’d therefore like to share how we overcame them.

(This is a specific use case of how a file is fixed - for a less technical description please follow our Fixing Series which supports live project descriptions with a more general overview of 3D printing and file fixing principles).

Starting Point

The model was originally created in SketchUp and imported directly into our file preparation software. The textures/colours applied in SketchUp are also conveniently imported (This can be both a blessing and a curse, as often heavy textures can slow down our software).

The imported model is run through a diagnostics check. This reveals all the errors in the model which have to be fixed before it is printable. As you can see in the image below this model has multiple errors indicated by the coloured lines: Bad Edges, in yellow, which occur when triangles/surfaces are not properly connected leading to gaps in the model mesh and Flipped triangles/surfaces are in red.

Single surfaces will not survive post processing or even print at all. All surfaces need to have a thickness in order for them to work in the 3D printing process. Part thickness is determined by all the connected surfaces creating a shell. All parts must be one complete shell with no bad surfaces or holes in order for them to print.

A model can be made up of multiple shells like those displayed in the image above in green. Even a simple object like a chair can be made up of multiple separate shells (the legs, the back, the cushion, right down to the screws if you have sent us some delightfully detailed information). In order for the part to print correctly and not fall apart in the process, shells will need to be unified to make one single shell.

The ultimate goal for any model is to create a single shell with no holes, bad edges or no inverted surfaces - in other words: no errors whatsoever!

File Fixing, like life, is all about breaking things down into manageable chunks to make it all seem achievable. Once the model has been split into manageable parts, each can be fixed individually, one at a time.

POST PROCESSING

Breaking down a model can also help to improve the overall finish of the model as it allows access to areas that require post possessing (hand finishing and brushing) after printing. All parts can be finished individually and assembled to bring the model together. We do also 3D print models all in one piece, but breaking them down like this gives flexibility to do more with a model.

Another benefit to breaking the model up in CJP gypsum powder printing is what we call Infiltration. This is the process of letting glue seep into the porous powder to give it strength and also make the saturated colour come to life!

When gluing a model it is vital that all surfaces have been brushed meticulously in order to remove any surface material that has not been removed using compressed air. If the uncured surface material is not removed the end results will show up as very patchy and give a bleach like stain on the models surface.

It’s equally important that when parts are being infiltrated with cyanoacrylate that the process is done quickly and efficiently to avoid the the infiltrant drying at different speeds. This would result in shiny patches also referred to as Double Gluing. All excess glue should be removed from the surface before drying to reduce the possibility of the shiny effects mentioned.

Infiltrated parts should be left to dry thoroughly before handling. Moisture will react with the drying process and can result in white patches on the model (the natural oils on your fingers can leave a mark at this stage, so keep those hands off!)

As for aftercare, it’s important never to get a CJP gypsum powder model wet. Water will react with the material and again cause a bleaching effect (white spots). Similarly, placing the model in direct sunlight will cause a CJP 3D printed model to discolour over time.

We hope that wasn’t too much to take in and that with our supporting blogs will help you make sense of the work that we do for your models at Fixie. If you’d like to know more, we’d love to hear from you directly on info@fixie3d.com

Fixie - it’s all in the name really: your design files need to be fixed before 3D Printing.

That’s why we set up Fixie, to scratch this task off your ever-expanding list. You’re the building specialists: we’re the 3D Printed model specialists!

Whilst sometimes there is only a small amount of file preparation, there are multiple factors which cause issues. This could be caused by how the digital model was originally made, how it was imported and interpreted by our 3D printing software and also how you would ultimately like to see your design represented. The requirements to make detailed features printable at different scales varies greatly. We don’t think it should be your job to worry about whether your design will 3D print or not!

We want to share all of these factors with you to help you understand the work we do at Fixie to get your model print ready, according to your specific brief.

Over the coming posts we will share our expertise on:

• Errors (Holes, Bad Edges)

• Fixes

• Pre-Emptive Measures (some discussed here already)

• Dos and Donts

If you’d like further information, we’d love to hear from you directly.